In the book, Ms. McMillan spends time working, living, and eating with a few different Mexican families. At one point, she is living in the central valley (of California) and goes to sell food and drinks to workers in the field with a woman she has befriended. The woman has prepared tortillas rolled tightly around some sort of filling which includes "blisteringly hot chilis." I believe that sausage and perhaps eggs are involved.
Of course I don't have the book in front of me as a reference, since I returned it to the library, so I forget the specifics. Like the woman's name, and the name of her son, who also accompanies Ms. McMillan while they're in the fields, selling chilled cans of soda and spicy hot tortilla breakfast rolls, or little burritos, on this dusty, cool, California morning, where I'm sure the dawn is still filled with the blue from the night sky, the workers are readying themselves for another day of harsh labor, the cool dirt in the fields is saturated with pesticide residue, the faces of the crew are covered in bandanas and baseball caps- probably quite tired, somewhat hopeful, since it is morning, and the certainty of the sun will soon be upon them, beating down as it does.
Although I don't seem to have an overt sensitivity to gluten, I've really tried to cut back on foods like this in my diet. I mean, white flour doesn't seem like something that would do well in the digestive tract- especially when mixed with lard, which does seem like a rather inert fat.
Rendered fat from a dead animal? I mean, far better utilized in the process of making tortillas than sent to the landfill.
I have attempted tortillas a few times in the past- and haven't had much success. Probably because I've resisted following the typical tortilla recipe, which is essentially white flour+shortening+baking powder, water and salt. I don't consider "shortening" to be food, and am not really that crazy about baking powder, either. So I've tried to make these with yeast, but that makes a tougher dough and the end result is much closer to naan. And I've tried vegetable oil--which did have acceptable results.
This is a workable recipe that I compiled from a few different ones found on the internet. I had some leftover pork fat, and read that using milk can result in a softer tortilla, so decided to try it.
Flour tortillas
2 cups all-purpose white flour
1 oz butter
3 oz rendered pork fat
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 cup milk (I used whole)
-or substitute water for milk- should be fine.
Please keep in mind that this recipe is a guideline!! Flour takes in, and gives out moisture to the surrounding environment.
Place dry ingredients together in a bowl. Using your fingers, massage the fat and flour together. Think peaceful thoughts. If you're lucky, maybe you have a companion in the kitchen to talk to. This is good. Consider if you were alone. I mean, maybe that would be good too. Or maybe you'd begin to get depressed, consider what a failure you are in life, and turn to alcohol as a sort of solution.
Anyway, when the fat and flour have reached a happy medium, add your liquid. Mix until a soft dough has formed- it will be a bit sticky. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes (or it could be longer, up to 2 hours probably) at room temperature.
If you do refrigerate the dough for some reason, you need to allow it to warm up before shaping into tortillas.
When you are ready to make tortillas, get out your pan and let it warm up. For best results, use a heavy bottomed pan. I use a cast iron skillet, an item which is easily found at the thrift store.
Using a rolling pin or whatever cylindrical device that you have lying about--an empty wine bottle, a piece of broomstick (clean it first!) roll out your dough into desired size. This may be determined by the size of your pan.
I ~think~ that this recipe makes about 8 6-7" tortillas.
When rolling out the dough, dust lightly with flour first. If your dough seems too resistant, let it rest. It will soften up after a minute or two. Take your time, and you will find that with patience, you can roll the dough out as thin as you'd like to.
When your pan is hot (not smoking hot--just medium) lay down your tortilla. Using tongs or even just a fork, turn it when you feel it needs to be turned. Depending on the heat of your pan, your tortilla may begin to burn slightly- you don't want that. Just keep turning it, and when it seems to be cooked--remove it from the pan.
Complete part of the cycle
1 piece of pork shoulder- whatever size you feel comfortable with. Salt it, especially the fatty parts, and roast at about 300˚F for 2 hours or so--maybe 2and a half-- and pour the fat out of the pan.
You can use this fat--lard--to make your tortillas.
Salsa
Well....... There are so many salsas out there--but one that I attempted was roughly
5-7 dried chilis
1-2 cloves garlic
salt to taste
water
lime juice, if you wish
roasted tomatillo, if you wish.
I was attempting to recreate a salsa they serve at the mexican restaurant in my town. Okay, there are several--but the only one that I actually eat at. They have a red salsa that I think is essentially dried chilis, water, garlic, and salt. I looked at the Rick Bayless website for a recipe, and his called for tomatillos, roasted- plus some toasted dried chilis, garlic, salt, lime juice, and a bit of sugar. This sauce was too full-bodied for my taste. Like an Oregon pinot gris--just too much residual sugar.
Anyway, go to the mexican grocery and look at the dried chilis. Ancho are a good basic one- but I have found that guajillo are very full flavored with a bit of heat. I took the advice of Rick Bayless and toasted my chilis in my cast-iron pan.
To do this, just heat the pan to medium-high, then lay chilis down in the pan and watch them. When chilis begin to puff, turn over with a pair of tongs. They will change color a bit- actually becoming a brighter red.
Next I soaked the chilis in a small bowl of water--hot water--I used close to boiling. Soak for however long it takes to fully hydrate- 20 minutes at least, more like 35.
Take a moment to examine the soaking liquid when the peppers have reached the desired point of hydration. It is a beautiful broth, rich in flavor. You could probably use it for something else, like a part of a soup. Or you might even drink it, if you're really the kind of weirdo that does things like that.
Anyway- then take your chilis, garlic, a bit of water (or that soaking liquid!) and a pinch of salt- and place in the blender. But first, remove the stems from the chilis--and maybe the seeds. If you include the seeds, your salsa will have more heat and also more bitterness. These are not necessarily undesirable qualities.
Another Rick Bayless recipe, to round out your tortilla+roasted pork snack, so that it's a bit easier on your digestive system. Onions escabeche.
Pickled red onions
1 red onion
~1/2 tsp kosher salt
juice of 1-2 limes
boiling water
Take your red onion, remove outer peel and slice thinly. Place the sliced onion in a bowl. Pour boiling water over the onion. Look at it for a moment. Swirl the bowl, and immediately dump out into a sieve. Place the onions in a bowl, sprinkle with salt. Squeeze fresh lime juice over the onions, tossing to coat. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes--or longer if you need to.
When you've got everything ready, take a warm tortilla, some roasted pork, a spoonful or two of salsa, and some beautiful pink onions. It should be good.
-or substitute water for milk- should be fine.
Please keep in mind that this recipe is a guideline!! Flour takes in, and gives out moisture to the surrounding environment.
Place dry ingredients together in a bowl. Using your fingers, massage the fat and flour together. Think peaceful thoughts. If you're lucky, maybe you have a companion in the kitchen to talk to. This is good. Consider if you were alone. I mean, maybe that would be good too. Or maybe you'd begin to get depressed, consider what a failure you are in life, and turn to alcohol as a sort of solution.
Anyway, when the fat and flour have reached a happy medium, add your liquid. Mix until a soft dough has formed- it will be a bit sticky. Allow to rest for at least 20 minutes (or it could be longer, up to 2 hours probably) at room temperature.
If you do refrigerate the dough for some reason, you need to allow it to warm up before shaping into tortillas.
When you are ready to make tortillas, get out your pan and let it warm up. For best results, use a heavy bottomed pan. I use a cast iron skillet, an item which is easily found at the thrift store.
Using a rolling pin or whatever cylindrical device that you have lying about--an empty wine bottle, a piece of broomstick (clean it first!) roll out your dough into desired size. This may be determined by the size of your pan.
I ~think~ that this recipe makes about 8 6-7" tortillas.
When rolling out the dough, dust lightly with flour first. If your dough seems too resistant, let it rest. It will soften up after a minute or two. Take your time, and you will find that with patience, you can roll the dough out as thin as you'd like to.
Complete part of the cycle
1 piece of pork shoulder- whatever size you feel comfortable with. Salt it, especially the fatty parts, and roast at about 300˚F for 2 hours or so--maybe 2and a half-- and pour the fat out of the pan.
You can use this fat--lard--to make your tortillas.
Salsa
Well....... There are so many salsas out there--but one that I attempted was roughly
5-7 dried chilis
1-2 cloves garlic
salt to taste
water
lime juice, if you wish
roasted tomatillo, if you wish.
I was attempting to recreate a salsa they serve at the mexican restaurant in my town. Okay, there are several--but the only one that I actually eat at. They have a red salsa that I think is essentially dried chilis, water, garlic, and salt. I looked at the Rick Bayless website for a recipe, and his called for tomatillos, roasted- plus some toasted dried chilis, garlic, salt, lime juice, and a bit of sugar. This sauce was too full-bodied for my taste. Like an Oregon pinot gris--just too much residual sugar.
Anyway, go to the mexican grocery and look at the dried chilis. Ancho are a good basic one- but I have found that guajillo are very full flavored with a bit of heat. I took the advice of Rick Bayless and toasted my chilis in my cast-iron pan.
To do this, just heat the pan to medium-high, then lay chilis down in the pan and watch them. When chilis begin to puff, turn over with a pair of tongs. They will change color a bit- actually becoming a brighter red.
Next I soaked the chilis in a small bowl of water--hot water--I used close to boiling. Soak for however long it takes to fully hydrate- 20 minutes at least, more like 35.
Take a moment to examine the soaking liquid when the peppers have reached the desired point of hydration. It is a beautiful broth, rich in flavor. You could probably use it for something else, like a part of a soup. Or you might even drink it, if you're really the kind of weirdo that does things like that.
Anyway- then take your chilis, garlic, a bit of water (or that soaking liquid!) and a pinch of salt- and place in the blender. But first, remove the stems from the chilis--and maybe the seeds. If you include the seeds, your salsa will have more heat and also more bitterness. These are not necessarily undesirable qualities.
Another Rick Bayless recipe, to round out your tortilla+roasted pork snack, so that it's a bit easier on your digestive system. Onions escabeche.
Pickled red onions
1 red onion
~1/2 tsp kosher salt
juice of 1-2 limes
boiling water
Take your red onion, remove outer peel and slice thinly. Place the sliced onion in a bowl. Pour boiling water over the onion. Look at it for a moment. Swirl the bowl, and immediately dump out into a sieve. Place the onions in a bowl, sprinkle with salt. Squeeze fresh lime juice over the onions, tossing to coat. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes--or longer if you need to.
When you've got everything ready, take a warm tortilla, some roasted pork, a spoonful or two of salsa, and some beautiful pink onions. It should be good.
